Portland – Maine

September 13, 2010

From Burlington, we drove east across Vermont, then across New Hampshire, and into to Portland, Maine.

It was a spectacular drive, featuring beautiful landscapes, cool old towns, and a delightful vanilla milkshake.

In Portland, we checked into a motel, then drove downtown and ate at a brewpub called Gritty’s. I had Blackened Haddock (the local fish that’s not lobster).

That’s it for today.

But there’s something else I should tell you about. It happened a couple days prior, in Montreal.

During the 20 minutes that Kettle and I were exploring Montreal’s Mont Royal park, someone broke into the Mini and stole my laptop.

It was my fault. I forgot to cover up the laptop, and so it was slightly visible. Due to my carelessness, I came back to a car that had neither my computer, nor a back side window.

While I cleaned up broken glass, Kettle happily lay on the sidewalk watching. He was not at all bothered by the situation, which helped me keep some perspective. They say dogs help reduce high blood pressure … this was a perfect example.

I went to the nearby Apple Store and bought a new MacBook Pro. There was also a Mini dealership in Montreal, but it was late Friday afternoon and the service department was closed till Monday – so the window would have to wait.

From Montreal to Burlington, having Kettle’s window “open” wasn’t a problem. But when I left Burlington, it was about to rain, so I took out my tent cover and wrapped it around the window, securing it by closing the hatchback and passenger doors onto each end. It worked pretty well.

By the time I was in New Hampshire, I was starting to feel better about the whole ordeal.

So I treated myself to a milkshake.

Vermont State Capital in Montpelier

Street in Montpelier

Bridge in Montpelier

Store in Montpelier

The Road to Maine

Looking for a bridge

Conway, New Hampshire


Burlington – Vermont

September 12, 2010

When I told Steve that I was planning on going to Montreal, he said I must bring them something French.

As I crossed the border leaving Canada, 3 things happened in quick succession:

1. I realized that I had failed to buy anything French for Steve and Diane.

2. I realized that I still had Canadian money left that I had failed to spend.

3. I realized that there was a duty free shop on my left that I was about to drive right by if I failed to act fast.

I succeeded in acting fast, and went in the shop.

I bought some maple syrup with my remaining 10 Canadian bucks.

Not exactly French. Not exactly thoughtful or generous. But at least I’m owning up to my less than prouder moments.

We entered New York and hung a quick left, which immediately put us in Vermont.

Vermont was like a New England theme park. Everything was pristine and perfect. Fancy people were biking, boating, lunching, and walking amid idyllic scenery.

I found myself worrying about where Kettle would poop.

Our destination was Burlington – the smallest American city that is a state capital.

Burlington’s downtown shopping street is called Church Street. The buildings are old (in a good way). The shops are interesting. The street is wide. And at the end of the street is a beautiful church.

If I had walked down Church St. on a normal day, I would have said, “This would be a great place for a street fair!”

But it must not have been a normal day, because I instead said, “Hey, there’s a street fair!”

People were everywhere.

Adding to the local charm, there was a summer-long art festival featuring art-cows, pieces of art the size and shape of cows, stationed along the street. The name of the festival is “The Cows Come Home To Burlington.”

Okay, then.

That night, Church Street was once again full of people. The University of Vermont, just up the street, was back in session and all the kids were out enjoying their first Saturday night.

I went to a bar where I sat outside, had a local beer, and listened to a good band. (Or maybe it was a good beer and a local band … it was some combination of those.)

But instead of going back to my dorm, I went back to my tent.

Yes, Kettle and I finally camped again. Weather didn’t permit it the entire time we were in Canada, but our vacation from camping finally came to an end, and we stayed at a campground just outside of town.

Kettle wasn’t too happy about it. He prefers motels.

It's nice here.

Finally posing at an antique shop for mom

A street fair!

I feel like I'm being watched.

But can you do this?

You can't take me here and not give me ice cream.

I'm done with the cows.

Coin-Douglas – Canada

September 11, 2010

I wasn’t sure what to do next.

I could spend another night in Quebec seeing sights, or I could get back on the road … back to Montreal, then New England, then down to Washington D.C., where I will be visiting my friends, Steve and Diane.

I was standing there in the motel room, struggling whether or not to check out of the motel.

I was thinking so hard that the smoke alarm went off.

Okay, I don’t know if that’s why, but I wasn’t creating smoke any other manner, and the smoke alarm really did go off!

It scared me. It confused Kettle. But at least it helped me make my decision.

The motel deactivated the alarm, and a few minutes later two maintenance woman (the maids) came and looked at the smoke alarm and said things to each other in French that I did not understand. But clearly they needed more time to figure it out. Then one of them looked at my half-packed bags and asked hopefully, “Quittez-vous?”

Are you leaving?

Oui, je quitte.

Leaving worked out well because one the “top ten” things to do in Quebec is to drive along the Chemin du Roy (“King’s Road”), the historic road along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River, connecting Quebec City and Montreal. And I just happened to be going that way.

The river was too wide to walk across any bridges, but we did have a nice lunch at a picturesque roadside restaurant. I had a piece of duck on a bed of greens, with a yummy sweet & sour chutney, plus some soup which I photographed for you.

Back in Montreal, we walked up to the top of Mont Royal (a park on a hill), then went downtown for a quick crepe, then drove south for half an hour and stayed at a motel in Coin-Douglas.

We were now 15 miles from the border with the United States of America.

Bonne nuit, Canada.



Lunch break


Quebec City – Canada

September 10, 2010

Tarte de Lapin.

Or Rabbit Pot Pie.

That’s what I had for lunch when I arrived in Quebec. After lunch I went to a cafe, blogged, and found a motel online that would accept Kettle. I also found an evening yoga class.

The motel was on the outskirts of town. I would have plenty of time to get there, then drive back downtown for the class.

But it was rush hour, it was raining, and there was road construction going on all over the place. (If Canada had a stimulus package, half of it must have gone to roadwork in Quebec City.) So by the time I got to the motel, I had little time to spare.

I like to take yoga classes while traveling for three main reasons:

1. It’s how I workout.

2. It’s possible, however unlikely, that I’ll meet one of the women I’m contorting myself with.

3. It’s something that locals, rather than tourists, do.

I was feeling like feeling like a local. So we jumped in the car and back on the freeway.

The Quebec City freeways are difficult. They all have multiple numbers and there are interchanges everywhere. There was road construction and detours, it was dark, and I was trying to navigate myself with my iPhone. It was pretty darn challenging. But I was on top of my game. I was making the correct last second freeway lane choices, and when I didn’t, I recovered quickly.

And the radio was playing some great songs. I was fired up.

When I got to the correct neighborhood, I found that they were doing roadwork all around the studio, and they had torn out the pavement. There was a sign that said “Local Traffic Only.”

No problem, that’s me – I’m going to my yoga class. So I drove past the sign and parked right around the corner from the studio. I had just enough time to quickly walk Kettle, and I got the there with 5 minutes to spare.

There are times, not often, when I do things well.

There was no yoga class.

The studio was closed for the summer. The schedule on the web site was for the fall season which wouldn’t be starting until the following week.

So this was not one of those times.

No longer a local, I went to the walled Vieux-Quebec and walked around with Kettle and the other tourists. The walk was beautiful, of course, and the Chateau Frontenac Hotel was stunning. We probably should have just done this in the first place.

Back at the motel, I almost went to bed, but the adjacent bar was playing really loud music, so I went to investigate. I spent the next hour watching French Canadian men singing Karaoke.

Those crazy locals.

My view with le Tarte de Lapin

Chateau Frontenac and a possessed dog

Wall around Vieux-Quebec

Quebec City Parliament Building

Laurier Station – Canada

September 9, 2010

I didn’t quite make it to Quebec.

By the time I got close, it was getting dark, I was tired, and there was a huge storm cloud looming ahead.

So I pulled over and stayed at a motel about 20 miles out of town.

I had enough veggies for 3 salads, so I chopped them all, made one salad, and put the rest in a baggie in the motel refrigerator, telling myself that I better not forget them there.

(I did forget them there, by the way.)

The motel seemed a bit overpriced given its distance from the city and the fact that it had a truck-stop feel to it. But I didn’t regret my choice until I realized that the place was adjacent to train tracks, with freight trains going by every hour or so.

Pulling over early to get some extra sleep wasn’t looking like such a good idea after all.

But then I had a brilliant idea. Before going to bed, I turned my iPhone’s WhiteNoise app to the setting which simulates the sound of a train. This way when a real train went by, it wouldn’t wake me up.

You just have to be smarter than the object you’re up against.

It worked like a charm, and it wasn’t till morning that I woke up to the sound of a train going by. The train kept going as I slowly woke up to its sound.

And going.

And going.

“Wow, this is a really long train,” I thought.


Ottawa & Montreal – Canada

September 8, 2010

Kettle and I had a big day ahead of us. Our goal was to drive to Ottawa (the capital of Canada) for lunch and sight-seeing, then make it to Montreal for dinner.

Of course that didn’t stop us from pulling over to walk across a bridge.

Not just any bridge, but the longest covered bridge in the province of Quebec. Longest, but not widest, and we had to hurry across the 110 year old bridge lest a car force us to cling to the side.

It was worth the risk because, as I’ve learned during this trip, Kettle is passionate about walking across bridges.

Or running across, as was the case with this one.

You may have noticed that I said that the bridge was in Quebec.

I was going from Pembroke to Ottawa – both are located on the Ontario side of the border with Quebec. To get to Ottawa, I had the choice of taking the main highway, which runs on the Ontario side, or a more rural road, which was on the Quebec side.

I chose the rural road, which had two important results:

a) We discovered and crossed the aforementioned bridge.


b) We ended up on the road to Gatineau instead of Ottawa.

Based on my iPhone GPS, I was going the right way. But all of the road signs were saying how far Gatineau was ahead, with no mention of Ottawa whatsoever.

I tried to find Gatineau on my phone’s map, but to no avail.

So I followed the signs to Gatineau, out of curiosity if for no other reason.

Turns out that Gatineau is the city adjacent to Ottawa, on the Quebec side of the Ottawa River. Although the parliament buildings are located in Ottawa, Gatineau is considered to be part of the “capital region.”

Google Maps didn’t think it was worth mentioning Gatineau, and the Quebecois sign makers didn’t think it was worth mentioning Ottawa.

Globalization, meet Provinciality .

I like Ottawa. It’s beautiful, historic, and diverse …

On the street where I parked there was a store called The Bible House: Christian Books, Music, and Gifts. Directly across the street was a store calledVenus Envy: Books, Sex, Health.

Funny, I didn’t feel comfortable going into either one.

But I had no problem taking pictures from outside.

We (well, I) had a nice lunch at a bistro, then we walked around the spectacular Parliament Hill. As we were leaving, we came across a dozen teenage girls all dressed up in colorful jester-like outfits.

I asked if they would pose for a picture with my dog. They were quite enthusiastic about it and gathered around Kettle.

Which scared him.

But the girl with the leash held on tight, and the photo shoot was a success.

Finding a motel in Montreal that would take dogs proved difficult, but we found a place outside of town near the airport. I was about to pull into the motel, when a woman crossed the street in front of my car.

She was holding a yoga mat.

I looked in the direction she was going, and sure enough there was a yoga studio right across the street. I took this as a sign, so I quickly checked in, changed, and went to the class. It was a Bikram class (aka Hot Yoga), which I had not done for a long time. But I managed to not pass out in front of a room full of Canadiennes.


By the time I was ready to go to dinner, it was late, we were still 20 miles from town, and there was a lightning storm.

But our goal was dinner in Montreal, so braving the weather we drove into town, parked, and went to the first place I found, Brasserie Alexandre, where I enjoyed a French Onion Soup and glass of wine.

So it ended up being a serendipitous day – I found a dream bridge for Kettle to cross, got a photo with a gaggle of colorful girls, was literally led to a yoga class, and ate at a restaurant with my name on it.

The next day we walked through Old Montreal, stopped at a veggie/fruit stand, then headed off to the city of Quebec.

Do you see this?
We can make it!
That was fun. Let’s go back!
Stage Right
Stage Left
Are you done yet?
Kettle, Dignitary
Kettle, Dog.
View from top of Parliament building
Zoomed In
I tried to get him to look at the camera, but he wouldn’t turn his back on them.
Notre Dame de Montreal, avec un chien
Random Street in Old Town. Not so random dog.
How am I supposed to read that?
Cooler’s full again

Pembroke – Canada

September 7, 2010

The drive from Sudbury to Pembroke was nice, but something bad happend.

I ran out of Econtalk podcasts..

Despite the name, the Econtalk podcasts are interesting, easy to follow, and cover a fairly wide range of topics. In general, the conversations highlight the effectiveness of ideas and solutions that emerge on their own, as opposed to ones which are centrally designed and imposed.

So I’m going to download more …


The corner store

A dock along the way